Mazatlán,
Sinaloa, Mexico
Cockroaches, Sea Creatures, and Pariahs;
My Latest Trip to Paradise
By Don Adams © Don Adams 2004
When the final history of the world is written I'm sure it will be scribbled out by some terrestrially evolved cold-blooded remnant of the murky depths of one of the oceans. Or perhaps one of the ultimate hangers-on of the insect kingdom; or more likely, one of an even more voraciously expanding band of predatory survivors---a timeshare salesperson.
Miz T and I recently enjoyed a week in Mazatlán, unmarred by the appearance and intrusion of members of the two more respectable and lovable groups listed above, but, sadly, some from the last group did attempt to spoil the joy of relaxing in one of our favorite cities. You know my advice regarding finding yourself in a distasteful or annoying situation---handle it! Keep reading to find out how. And to discover how charming that port city really is, at least from my perspective.
Miz T is the ultimate travel bargain finder so she worked her magic and booked us into a nice resort in Mazatlán for a week for one dollar US, plus taxes. That amounted to less than $200. Not bad. Especially not bad when you find yourself in a semi-tropical seaside wonderland. It took about five hours to drive from Chapala and the roads were good. For those who have never done it, there's a toll road much of the way, as well as a libre. Take the toll road.
The trip out took us through miles of coastal swampland and I can only imagine the bounty of wildlife existing in such a beautifully wild and isolated area. We saw the birds and the flora, but could only imagine what lurked in the shallow waters and on the vast and scattered patches of dry land.
One proof of the bounty to be harvested was the tarps spread out alongside the road and covered with salmon-colored piles of drying shrimp. As we passed through the villages of the area many of the locals tried to sell us bags of them. And coconuts; and handicrafts that you don't see in my part of Mexico. And sweets beyond compare.
But Mazatlán was the destination and the real treat at the mid-point of that trip. As we entered the city we were once again welcomed by the tantalizing aroma of fresh roasted coffee as we neared the Marino plant. I'm not too much into the coffee consumption sweepstakes but I do love that smell.
We headed on into town to catch the street to the malecon and then drove north along a wide but busy boulevard to our hotel out past the marina. Don't expect much detail here because we weren't doing a tourist run. Wwe were going to relax and simplify.
The resort we checked into was a timeshare set-up, so we expected the initial onslaught and were prepared to deal with it. Here's how it went. We checked in at the reception desk and then followed directions over to a second reception desk on the opposite wall of the lobby, where a very personable and helpful tout provided us with a pile of useful brochures and handouts. We were given:
That was a time to keep a cool head and a nice smile. We accepted the goodies offered, signed up for the breakfast we had no intentions of showing up for, and got the hell away from the lobby and to the safety of our room. We noticed, as we were led to our lair, that there were restaurants, bars, grocery and liquor stores, a laundromat, game rooms, clothing stores, and even shops offering gee-gaws of wide variety, either on the grounds of the resort or within eyesore and walking distance. There must be a reason
In semi-fairness, the timeshare industry provides jobs and an economic boost to many areas of the world, but the truth of the whole sordid affair is that they hire people to try to separate me from large sums of my hard-earned money, and seemingly, in the process to be as annoying and disruptive as possible. My part in that particular drama, as I see it, is to thwart their efforts by any means possible, while picking and choosing among the many free options they offer that could benefit me. It's all a game. Some win, some lose.
Friends of ours told us of a recent visit to the Chapala area by another couple. He boasted widely, broadly, and deeply, of his love of Mexico and her people; an attitude gained over many years of visiting the country. However, something was amiss on this trip. He was unhappily ensconced in a Mexico he didn't recognize. It seems that all of his prior exposure to Mexico had been confined to wait-on-you-hand-and-foot resorts, which might as well have been in Ottawa or Ottumwa, and he was unable or unwilling to accept the wonderful reality of travel through this country. Don't let that happen to you. All you really need from your resort or hotel is a place to leave your luggage and to lie down at night. Set yourself free and see the area.
That's exactly what we did.
After we got settled in we headed out for a late dinner. Living in the Ajijic area means there are very few dining choices if you're the least bit particular, or insist that your overpriced meal be semi-edible and served somewhat competently. Mazatlán, being larger and more sophisticated, offers an ample selection of restaurants and cuisines. Search out your own favorites based on what appeals to your appetite and your purse. Sushi got us through that evening. You won't read much here about specific eateries, but there are three that I believe deserve special attention because of my experiences in them.
First was La Casa Country Restaurant Bar. No "and" in the name. Miz T and I had arranged to meet up with Marlene and her husband Santana and arrived a few minutes early. Buses in the street and parking lot were offloading musicians, and vehicles rolling in and out of the drive were delivering happy campers to what turned out to be a private party. The management let our group order but with the understanding that we had to clear out by nine o'clock. No problema! That gave us more than an hour to eat; at least fifty-five minutes more than I normally require. Service was excellent and attentive, cervezas were cold, the food was tasty and well prepared and the ambiance and entertainment were first-rate.
I'll never go in the place again. A major problem arose.
Soon after we settled in a smiling gringa approached and asked if we were enjoying ourselves. I was temporarily occupied with mentally supervising the young folklorico dancers who were performing and had let my "Uh-Oh!" shield down. You guessed it! She wasn't really asking about our state of happiness and contentment, she was setting us up for a sales pitch---timeshare style.
IN THE RESTAURANT!!! Right at my table! Marlene gained stature in my book as she gracefully deflected the pest. Classy. Unlike whoever allowed the salesperson to wander about and irritate the customers.
At the opposite end of the spectrum was our visit to La Puntilla (The Little Point), down by the ferry dock. On the evening we were there Miz T and I were the only gringos in the place but that must have been an aberration. Surely the place must be a local favorite. I had a whole snapper, deep-fried and served with delicious side dishes for the astoundingly low price of 65 pesos. Now I'm talking about a braggin' size catch, too, not a home aquarium water wimp. And the service was outstanding.
As we sat there at the edge of the harbor watching boats and ships enter and depart, sipping our drinks, watching the sunset, and cooled by a soft sea breeze, I became aware of a soft musical tinkle somewhere off to my right. I half-turned to watch a four piece group serenading the table behind me. The smallest of the group, a guitarist, was close by my chair and the sound that first took my attention was his delicate plucking of worn nylon strings.
His dexterity and talent were quite extraordinary, but the sounds he coaxed from that battered and cheaply strung guitar would have brought tears to the eyes of Les Paul. I truly had to fight the impulse to buy him a decent guitar, or at least a set of steel strings, but then I wondered if that might not upset the dynamic he'd established. Sweet Jesus, keep me from such an error.
I recommend La Puntilla without reservation. They evidently don't allow timeshare hustlers to aggravate their patrons. Could it get any better?
Yes, it could. In the same area you'll find the Port Captain's office, a PeMex marine fueling dock, and a shrine dedicated to the Virgin Mary. She's called The Virgin of the Point and the monument is easily seen from the restaurant. Even though I'm far from Catholic, I always feel better after a visit to any one of the many shrines dedicated to the Virgin.
My third suggestion is that you drop by the Mercado Suarez, known by the locals as El Mercado Central (The Central Market) in the business district of Old Town and check out one of the little comidas up on the second floor. Just pick the one that most appeals to you and grab a table out on one of the balconies.
We did, and enjoyed a great glimpse into the bustle of normal business life in the city. Of particular interest were the traffic cops. Dressed in tan and brown they all carried tape measures, chalk, ticket books, whistles, and screwdrivers. If you've doubted the stories about cops taking your license plates if you violate parking ordinances, let me assure you they're true; at least in Mazatlán.
One afternoon we stopped by Suarez to buy a couple of kilos of shrimp to take back to the hotel to gently saute in butter and garlic for a delicious and ample all-evening repast. We threw open all the windows and settled in on the sofas for an evening of mindless and stressless TV viewing. Sometimes you just have to dock and refuel.
Oh, the food in the mercado was good too. And inexpensive. We tried zarandeado, a Sinaloa-style highly-seasoned baked in tinfoil fish offering. Try it if you get a chance. There it cost about 30 pesos if I remember correctly. And the dining experience was unpolluted by any sign of a timeshare salesman---just like our hotel room.
Well almost unpolluted. They do call a lot --- to remind you that you forgot to come to breakfast, or to let you know about other special deals. You know how to handle those calls. Just say you'll certainly show up next time. Then don't. Or do, if you have had a couple of previous ventures into the country and truly want to return each year to this lovely city. For many of us, timeshares are just not the right deal.
Of course the real attractions for us are the beaches. Our new favorite is over on Stone Island, Isla de la Piedra. Rather than an island, it's actually a peninsula about 15 miles long. You get there in any one of several ways. You can sign up for one of the tours and go with a crowd of tourists, Mexican as well as gringos. you can drive. Or you can pay ten pesos to ride the shuttle boats with the locals. Stone Island is only about a thousand yards or so from the mainland so it's not a major cruise. Ten minutes or so. Miz T and I took the latter two choices.
On our first trip over the waves, we paid one of the locals to shuttle us around in his rusty, ragged VW Thing and it turned out to be the best purchase of the entire trip. He took us to see all the sights, such as the place had to offer. We went by the house where the guy keeps two crocodiles in a nice area next to his goat pen. Our guide joked that it made it easier to feed the crocs that way. I think he was joking.
Our next stop was the seahorse hatchery. I've seen seahorses before but never foot-long specimens like those in the tanks. And we marveled at how, just like more sentient pets, they noticed us and swam to the side of the pools as we approached.
A ride to the edge of town to check out acres of coconut plantations was next, as well as a look at some of the lagoons included in the advertised jungle tours. The guide also showed us where we could net some shrimp if we wanted to get wet.
After stopping for gas at the new PeMex facility he dropped us off at the beach with a promise to return in time to get us back to catch the last shuttle to the mainland.
We settled in at one of the open-walled beachfront eateries and listened to a loud and enthusiastic trio serenade a stricken pair of young lovers while we shared a platter of camarones natural. We eventually changed into swimwear and drifted onto the sand for awhile. Some of the places have restrooms and shower areas for their patrons. Simple, but sufficient. And if you want to leave your stuff at your table while you take a swim or join the local surfers and shellers and crabbers, they'll keep an eye on your things. That short visit induced us to return the next day.
Before that though we made a Wally-World run to buy a huge beach umbrella, folding camping chairs, and sunscreen. Mazatlán offers a spectacular selection of stores of all types, as well as several first-run movie theatres and other modern amenities. I'd be willing to bet that almost any normal product you'd find in the D.F. or Guadalajara is available in Mazatlán. I could be wrong, but not by much. English language books are in short supply, but nearly everything else you think you need can be found there.
Our last stops were to buy water and ice to toss in the cooler and a roasted chicken, some fresh veggies, and a few other treats for snacks.
On to the beach! When you drive out, just head for the airport. It's on Highway 15 toward Tepic, the one you originally took into town from Guadalajara. If you flew in or anchored your yacht in the harbor you can rent a car or Jeep. As you near the airport look for a sign on the right that leads you down the road to it. Just a mile or so along the road you just turned onto is another sign reading "Isla de la Piedra." Turn right. In his comprehensive guide to Mazatlán the publisher of the Pacific Pearl Magazine, Michael Veselik, warns against driving this route because it's a long way to go, and the road is rough. I agree - if you live in Mazatlán - but for tourists, I recommend the drive for several reasons.
First, you need to get out and see some of the country. Driving also allows you the option of where to stop and set-up along that long stretch of beach and if you're trying to escape the beach vendors and others, even the most hardy won't trek a mile or more just for the chance to pitch their wares to you. Plus you can carry your big umbrella and your beach chairs and loungers, and enough food and beverages for an entire Boy Scout Troop. And the road is not that bad.
The first five miles leading to the luxurious beachfront Estrella del Mar Resort are all paved. It makes a smoother ride for the golfers who play the "magnificent 18-hole Robert Trent Jones course," as Mr. Veselik wrote. You know of my interest in sea turtle conservation so I'm happy to report that the resort sponsors a preservation project, Turtle Camp Estrella del Mar.
The next nine miles to the village are unpaved but relatively smooth compared to streets in our hometown area where the cobblestones grow wild and untended. My only warning is about topes. The ones on this strip of road are unmarked, and because they're the same compacted earth as the road, very difficult to see from far away. They appear to be some sort of raised drainage culverts rather than "traffic calming devices," but the end result is the same. They do slow you down.
If you survive the drive, and you will, you'll need to turn left when you enter the village. Finding the beach won't be a major chore. When you get there, drive out onto the packed sand or follow the sandy road as far as you wish before you stop to set up camp. Now you're set for a day of total relaxation. Sit and watch the ships and shrimp boats as they go about their business; stroll and hunt shells; envy the seabirds gliding along on updrafts and wind currents; nod and speak to the very few locals who pass by; bask in the sun; and finally watch it set colorfully and spectacularly into the sea; then thank whichever diety you pray to that you found such a tranquil space so near a vibrant city.
When you get back to that city you can take advantage of a number of entertaining options. One evening Miz T and I headed over to the stadium to catch a baseball game. The local team, "Los Venados" - The Deer - were in a tight race for the AAA Pacific Coast League Championship and we saw some talented ballplayers show their stuff. Each team had a few gringos on their rosters too. Outfield seats cost ten pesos and those behind home plate were less than fifty. It's a bargain. And certain dancing females in the crowd provided an unexpected entertainment bonus. That was fun for both die-hard fans as well as kids of all ages.
Indulge me while I pay homage and offer thanks to the Pacifico Cerveza folks of Mazatlán. Now, there's a company with a corporate conscience. They support Los Venados with a huge advertising budget, as well as involving themselves with a number of other civic and charitable organizations. I've been a fan since my early days in the Baja and you've seen me mention Pacificio many times. In my opinion it's the true Rey of Mexican beers. Try it, you'll like it! But now, back to the sand.
We spent one calm quiet evening on a beach near the north end of the Golden Zone. At least until a persistent timeshare scout trudged over to bug the hell out of us. Here's how to handle that situation. He promised money and gifts if we would allow him to pick us up the next morning to escort us to a free breakfast presentation. Breakfast spiels must be more mesmerizing and profitable than other meal-centered pitches. Anyway, fill out his form with a pseudonym and the name and room number of another hotel and send him off to screw up someone else's vacation. Some of those jokers ask for a credit card deposit to make sure you show up. Look them straight in the eye and laugh.
We avoided many timeshare folks and enjoyed a memorable evening at Woodstock, a small club on the main drag. Decorated in part with one of the owners' album covers from the classic rock era the place is funky and offbeat, but perfectly comfortable for all ages---including my soft-rock, easy-listening, elevator music, geezer age group.
We met the Santanas there to listen to some vintage rock reconstructed by the band El Te de Playa and to enjoy a few cervezas. Folks, the beer was cold, and the rock was hot! Adolfo, one of the owners, delivered a bucket of iced bottled brew to our table and left us set for a good start on the night.
As they progressed through their sets, El Te treated the crowd to a mix of Classic, Modern, and Reggae Rock. If you're a Marley fan you'll find many bands in Mexico equipped to give you a Jamaica fix. Especially in the coastal areas.
Silvia, the other owner stopped by from time to time to chat and make sure everything was running smoothly and that all her customers were happy. They were, and they stayed that way.
One thing that made me happy was the small plaza below the balcony on which we were sitting where several street vendors were set up and cooking outrageously fragrant tacos al carbon.
Get the picture? Cold beer, rock and roll, balmy sea breezes gently fanning across the balcony of a small and unique club in a beautiful Mexican port city, attentive and hospitable owners and waiters, and delicious inexpensive portable carnivore fare only a few steps away. If heaven ain't better, I'm not goin'.
Santana on bass, Joel on lead guitar, and drummer Javier delivered a week's worth of entertainment in only a few short hours. Santana picked his bass like a four-string Chet Atkins disciple, and Javier drove the rhythm hard without coming on too strong or committing other percussive sins. Joel played flawlessly, with feeling and style. The three rotated on vocals, and all took instrumental solos. They're a happy band, folks.
Last year the guys traveled to Culiacan to participate in "Band Explosion", a by-invitation-only competition. They were the only Mazatlán band offered the chance to perform, and were referred to as "the band from the beach". The contest is restricted to groups that have never recorded professionally and one of the requirements is that they perform music that they composed. Santana's "Juanita Rockera" was their choice and was a crowd favorite.
El Te de Playa is definitely not a garage band, and Woodstock ain't your average touristy watering hole. In most clubs the only locals you'll meet are the servers; here you'll make friends with regular folks. Stop by and check 'em out.
Well there were a few more things we saw and did but your interests are different and you may want to take advantage of many of the other attractions, some of which we covered during earlier trips. Get the Pacific Pearl Guide along with Charles Hall's book and you should be able to easily plan a great week in Mazatlán. There are a number of interesting towns close by but you won't be able to see everything in only a week. .You will want to come back to remedy that. And there's always a smiling face waiting for your return. It might be on the front of a timeshare Mau-Mau's head, but a smile is still a smile.
If you're really serious about living in Mazatlán and want a great view without spending a lot of money you might want to scout out some small building lots in a colonia high on a hill overlooking both the bay and the rolling Sinaloa countryside.
I'm not in the business or the market, but my curiosity led me to look them over. They're only about $500 U.S. apiece and four or five of them together would provide you with a sizable mini-estate. I need to sell my lake lots in Texas before I take advantage of anything like that though. There are possibilities aplenty in this Pearl of the Pacific.
If you want more information about the city of Mazatlán and the surrounding area post your questions on Mexconnect's Sinaloa-Mazatlán forum and I guarantee you'll get an answer.
Don't try to explore the city until you've read this book! The author and his researchers cover every aspect of the expectations of tourists (and local residents), including an exhaustive listing of sights, places, and bars and restaurants. Read a bit of what they say about geography, history, and legal information and you're better able to fully enjoy your stay in Mazatlán.
Order:
412 Interamerica Blvd.
PMB-15-345
Laredo, TX 78045
Tel/Fax (from U.S. or Canada) 011-52-669-913-0117
e-mail: yooper@pacificpearl.com
http://www.pacificpearl.com
Santana,
Marlene, and Samantha
mazrental@prodigy.net.mx
http://Mazatlán.homestead.com
Marlene, from Canada, and Santana, from Mazatlán, offer advice to travelers as well as assistance with housing rentals (both long and short term), and other services. Samantha guards the gate. Check their website for some current rental costs and photos of available places. Marlene is also moderator of the Sinaloa-Mazatlán Forum on http://www.mexconnected.com.
Paperback-Print-on-demand
6X9, 178 pages
All profits go to Mazatlán charities. Mr. Hall and I disagree about timeshares
but he's evidently a much kinder man than me. Check this one out.
Order:
http://shop.iuniverse.com/cart/basket.asp?c=O&retURL=
e-mail: chall@prodigy.net.mx
These folks are on the main drag. They can medevac you if necessary. http://www.touristmedicalassist.com
Javier Pena and his crew can arrange for Light Tackle, Deep Sea, or El Salto Bass Fishing. See Teresa Kendrick's article in the December 2003 issue of Mexconnect Magazine. The guys all speak English.
Rodolfo
T. Loaiza #404, Local 5
Tres Islas Shopping Center---Next to Mango's Restaurant
Tel 669-913-1621 or 916-7160 From the U.S. 1-888-745-2054
e-mail: javier@ifishmexico.com
http://www.ifishmexico.com
This inviting bar is a favorite of both locals and tourists. Owners Adolfo and Silvia - a local attorney, work behind the bar (as does Silvia's husband when he's home from his military duties), and rotate serving customers at the tables, alongside their friendly waitstaff. Live music from El Te de Playa, pool, and clean restrooms. Located in Las Palmas Commercial Center on Avenida Cameron Sabalo (the main drag of the Golden Zone) 1/2 block north of the Panama Restaurant and directly across from Alamo Rent-a-Car (they have a huge lighted sign). Follow the music up the wide white curved staircase. For locals, this is the same huge complex in which Vineyard Church holds services.
This is a traditional Mexican market although there are a few places to buy touristy doo-dads. Remember, a lot of your fellow tourists are Mexicans; I'll guarantee that the U.S. and Canada don't deliver up enough tourists to keep the country happy and prosperous, so don't get overblown with imperialistic pomposity. Relax and slip into the current of life as it's lived daily in Mazatlán. Yes, it's safe. I've seen a number of solitary female tourists enjoying themselves down there. Plus there's a cop or two on every street. And the food is economical and delicious.
Your cab driver knows where it is, or you can catch the Sabalo Centro bus to and from the market. Always negotiate the fare before you get into any taxi, pulmonia (doorless golf cart looking VWs), safari (same as a pulmonia, but with doors), Eco-Taxi, or auriga (the little red trucks with seats in the bed). If you don't like the price, try another one. Those guys are competitive and will bargain.
U.S. Toll
Free 1-888-587-0609
Direct U.S. & Canada 011-52-669-982-33
http://www.estrelladelmar.com
Tell your cab driver to take you to Interior muelle turistico la puntilla (Inside the tourist dock on the little point). Open 10:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m.
These small boats depart every few minutes from the dock at the east end of the Naval Base. You have to walk about 50 yards off Avenida Emilio Barragan (the main drag of the port area) to get to it. Your ticket says "Servicio las 24 hrs." but that's for emergencies. The boats are not rigged with running lights so on the bottom left corner they'll write in the time the last boat leaves the island. It'll definitely be before dark. The cost in October, 2003 was 10 pesos for a round-trip ride. You do need to be somewhat agile to get aboard, so wear good shoes for a sure-footed grip.
You can also catch a boat a bit farther west, up by the ferry dock. Same price, same destination, same lack of lights.
If you're wondering how you can afford to spend an extended period of time in Mazatlán or anywhere else in the country you might consider teaching English.
Mark Farley can give you the scoop on what's required. InternetWorks, Mark's company, also publishes the Teach English in Mexico Newsletter which I highly recommend.
e-mail: info@employnow.com
http://www.teach-english-mexico.com
I told you there weren't many English language books available but David Bodwell has a nice stock of new and used in this nice little shop. Easy to get to, right on the main drag in the Golden Zone, and a calm place to visit.
Avenida
Camaron Sabalo #610
Plaza Galerias --- Suite #1
Across the street from Hotel Costa de Oro and just behind Banco Santander.
Pick up a copy of the Pacific Pearl Magazine and their Guide to Mazatlan.